“Are you going to stay in Saraguro for the Three Kings Celebration?” a man asked us.
We had arrived only an hour ago – this was an interesting start of our visit.
What was the Three Kings Celebration?
From the Peruvian border and Vilcabamba in southern Ecuador, we had driven to the mountain town of Saraguro. We had arrived a couple of days before the end of the year, and, on arrival, were introduced to Ecuador’s custom of burning effigies during New Year’s Eve – or in the days prior to this December 31.
While we watched the burning of the hospital worker’s effigy, we discussed Ecuador’s traditions and celebrations, and the topic of Saraguro’s Three Kings Celebration came up. It’s also known as Epiphany and is celebrated early January.
Read More: New Year’s Eve in Ecuador
Who are the Saraguros?
Saraguros are one of Ecuador’s largest indigenous groups. Their dress is remarkable. First of all, it’s one of the few places in South America where men still don their traditional garb, sporting a single ponytail and wearing a black poncho with knee-length black shorts.
Some of the Saraguro women are among the most elegantly dressed I’ve ever seen (especially when dressed up for a celebration like Three Kings), wearing ankle-length, black skirts and shawls fastened with extraordinary ornate silver pin called a tupu. Most Saraguros wear classy hats, like white ones with black dots, or black hats.
Travel Guides for Ecuador
(click on the images to look inside)
Products from Amazon
Saraguro’s Sunday Market & Traditions
We happened to be in Saraguro on Sunday when people from surrounding villages and farms flock to the town to sell and buy produce.
In front of the church, women were making flower decorations for the church. They get together every week (or ‘every eight days,’ as they call it) to make fresh ones. Each year a new group of women gets elected for this honor job.
However, the tradition may well cease to exist as the younger generation no longer takes interest in participating. The women told us that in the old days they were with enough to make fifteen of these decorations; today they make three or four.
We found Saraguro an easygoing town, pleasant to amble along. At the market, women encouraged us to try their new horchacha tea, alfalfa juice, or bread filled with fresh cheese that is roasted on coals. Ecuador has good local snacks and treats, and in this case it was no different.
The Three Kings Celebration in Saraguro
We decided to make a loop to Cuenca for New Year’s Eve and indeed return to see the final celebration for the Saraguros’ annual, two-week Christmas / Three Kings Celebration on January 6 (here’s more on the subject).
We never cease to be amazed at how complicated it can be to get some practical info. For example, at what time mass would start, the procession, or other activities. Nobody knew, or everybody knew but said something different. There was nothing to do but take a seat in the plaza and wait for happenings to unfold.
In a nutshell: the church was packed, after which there was a procession around town with a couple of them dressed up in dancing costumes or wearing masks – the latter had the job to make fun of others –, or carrying ‘gigantes’ on sticks. On their return it was time for more celebration in the form of dancing.
These photos will give you an impression of that fun, surprising day.
Check out: The Landcruising Adventure Tote-Bag Collection
Stay up to Date
Would you like to stay in the loop on all things Landcruising Adventure?
Sign up for our newsletter to get the latest news.
No spam – just updates that are infrequent enough not to annoy you, and it’s easy to unsubscribe!
Inspired? Pin it to your Pinterest Travel Boards
(Click on the image to pin it)
